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Video Vía Paparruchas, Naranjo de Bulnes

Tema en 'Montañismo, escalada, barranquismo,...' iniciado por villareto, 7 Ago 2018.

  1. villareto

    villareto Corredor de los 200m.

    Registrado:
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    PAPARRUCHAS, vertiente Este del Picu Urriellu

    Ya pasaron mas de 20 años desde la última vez que escalaba esta bonita ruta, desde su apertura en 1.988 la consigo escalar en 3 nuevas ocasiones más así que esta última es la 4ª y lo cierto es que no esperaba hacerla tan bien, es mucho tiempo y tenía serias dudas de conseguirla, al menos no también, la verdad es que con nivel o sin él, pero con una buena dosis de mentalidad y ganas lo logramos.



    Esta ruta de escalada la abrimos el día 17 de octubre de 1.988 Paulino Suarez (Pocho) y yo es una ruta que estuve estudiando durante las repetidas ocasiones que escalaba, Espejismos y la vía del Pájaro Loco que va entre ellas con espacio suficiente entre ambas, recorre una línea directa buscando siempre los puntos más característicos de la pared como la fisura diagonal del primer largo o las canales superiores, entre medio varios largos complicados sobre todo el 3º que es el tramo clave de la ruta.

    Los 2 primeros largos carecen de seguros pero no son necesarios ya que la roca por la que discurre es una magnifica rampa de canalizos donde colocar friends es todo un placer, el tramo clave viene en el 3º largo por un muro vertical con poco agarre, al menos a simple vista porque la realidad es muy diferente, todo el tramo está protegido por 5 seguros, son buriles viejos pero que cumplen a la perfección su labor, vamos superando el tramo y sintiéndonos cada vez mejor un tramo de 6ª mantenido en el que podemos trabajar el Aº en algunos puntos aunque no es necesario.

    Desde la reunión vemos un gran desplome sobre la reunión y que tenemos que superar, parece que nos cierra el paso ya que a simple vista es complicado pero es más vulnerable de lo que en principio parece, nos protegemos con varios puentes de roca que restauramos con nuevos cordinos hasta alcanzar el paso del desplome que superamos por la izda. Aquí vemos una chapa de aluminio que en aquellos tiempos utilizaba para superar algún tramo difícil, es un bonito recuerdo que aun siga allí, esta sin cordino le quite el viejo así que no usarla ya que una caída lo cortaría, hay buena fisura así y que podemos aprovechar para colocar un buen empotrador que será suficiente, la salida sin ser difícil V+, tiene su miga porque es mantenido, encontramos otro buril a continuación y otro más arriba sin chapa, llevar recuperables o utilizar como yo en este caso el cable de un empotrador.

    A partir de este lugar continuamos una serie de canales 2 largos IV+ hasta la grada de la vía Cepeda justo al inicio de su espolón final, a escasos 10 metros a la dcha., se encuentran los rapeles de la Este, destrepar con precaución o mejor asegurados ya que un traspiés aquí te llevaría al vacío.

    La escalada nos lleva 2’30 h, para mí fue una ascensión rápida y estoy contento porque aún conservo las energías pero sobre todo la ilusión de continuar, continuamos con la vía “de la que vas Plass”, que fue un buen colofón de una buena jornada.

    Si queréis mas información como la reseña la encontráis en mi block .


    https://villarandres.blogspot.com/
     
  2. Fortdan5P

    Fortdan5P Corredor de los 400m.

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